I raised my family on home
made bread. It all started when Rick said to me shortly after our wedding, “Will
you make bread like my mother’s bread?” Fortunately, I had enjoyed his mother’s
bread several times on visits to the Whitt farm before she died in 1962, and it
was outstanding. In a world of Wonder Bread, her bread was firm with just a bit
more salt than commercial breads of the day. As the kids were growing up we
referred to commercial breads as phony plastic bread.
I had never made breads
other than biscuits and muffins, and those accomplishments were due to my home
economics teacher when I was in junior high school. Thanks again, Mrs.
Robertson. My mother wasn’t a bread maker and I don’t think my grandmothers
were, either. So I did the next best thing. I opened the tried and true
cookbook given to me by my mother, The
Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, by Fannie Merritt Farmer, 8th
ed., 1948.
I had no photos like the
ones in today’s cookbooks, no DVD, no internet baking experts, no real
knowledge about bread making. After all, it was the 1960s. What I had were the
texture and the taste in my memory as a guide. I had tried to make rye bread
once before with disastrous results due to not understanding that yeast
requires warmth to do its magic. So I tossed out that failure and started anew.
My bread was a success
because my cookbook was a success (also, I could read). The bread chapter
presented a tutorial on flours and leavening, liquids and flavors. The recipe
for white bread went on for a page and a half. How could I fail? Best of all,
it looked and tasted a lot like my mother-in-law’s bread.
My bread was simple, in
contrast to the excellent bread that my daughter, Mary, makes and has described
in her culinary blog, Mary’s Food Journal. Mary uses more ingredients including
powdered buttermilk, which I think had not yet been invented when my cookbook
entered the world. Mary’s rising process (the bread rising, not Mary rising)
requires a lot of time. She is truly a woman for today. I noticed on her blog
that the hands of the person pictured kneading that bread are those of her
husband and not Mary, so it is a team effort. Our bread making experiences say
a lot about the way we approach food. Our daily bread is our daily life.
Bread making is about
process. People who want results without process can buy bread. My daughter-in-law Sherry uses a bread
machine, and that's okay. Results can come in various ways. I think that there is something like
this in the Bible. Remember Moses? When the Hebrews were out in the wilderness
on their forty year journey away from Egypt, they ate manna, a food that came
to them from heaven. Was it bread? Maybe. It was about results, not the process
of making the food. And did they complain about it? Did they want pizza? Moses
was the complaint department, I think. It’s no wonder he retreated up onto a
mountain, where he got the Ten Commandments.
So if we complain about our results-driven diet today, we can think
about those Hebrews who were lost in the wilderness and benefiting from the
celestial supermarket product of manna.
Here is the wonderful
process-driven bread that I made for a lot of years, shortened from the
aforementioned page and a half. Today I rarely eat bread, but it is part of the
family story. The nutrition part of bread is not part of this essay. You can
read about that somewhere else.
White Bread
1 cup scalded milk 2 tablespoons
sugar
1 cup hot water 1 package dry
yeast
2 tablespoons butter
and/or oil ¼ cup lukewarm water
2 ½ teaspoons salt 6 cups all purpose
flour (approx.)
Mix together milk, hot
water, sugar, butter and salt. Cool to lukewarm. Dissolve yeast in lukewarm
water and add to liquid mixture. Stir in 3 cups flour and mix thoroughly. Add
remaining flour gradually, using just enough to prevent stickiness. Knead it on
a floured surface until it is smooth and elastic, about ten minutes. Put the
dough into a lightly greased bowl and cover it with a dish towel or some other
loose cover. Set it in a warm place to rise until it is double in bulk, about
an hour. When it is doubled, punch it down, turning it over and over. Don’t
skimp on this or you might cause a yeasty or sour taste.
Divide the dough into
parts to equal two or more loaves, depending on desired size. For me this makes
two standard size loaves. Knead the pieces and shape them into loaves. I
flatten the dough a bit, roll it up and tuck the ends under so that the seams
don’t show. Place them into two greased loaf pans (about 9x5 inches). If you
are making round or oblong loaves, place them on a greased cookie sheet. Cover
them with a dish towel and let them rise again until double in bulk, about an hour.
Bake the loaves at 375 degrees 40 to 60 minutes until they are brown and make a
thumping noise when you rap on them. Turn them out of the pans immediately.
That’s my bread, without
the dissertation about what happens if the dough rises too long or not long
enough, the rising temperature is too high or too low, or the oven is too hot. Bread
making is an experiment.